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Is a Woman’s Attire the Measure of Her Empowerment and Modernity?

– Huma Ahmed

New Delhi: International human rights organisation Amnesty International recently released a poster on women’s freedom to choose their clothing (available on Amnesty’s X account). What makes this poster noteworthy is the inclusion of the hijab alongside other styles of clothing.

This may be the first time that a national or international organisation, in a campaign addressing women’s rights, has embraced an inclusive perspective by giving space to the hijab.

Intellectuals believe that any discourse in society must be inclusive. If a movement, however noble in its intentions, such as women’s liberation, lacks inclusivity, its principles are hollow and its policies merely an agenda.

Amnesty International, by including the hijab in its poster, has clearly demonstrated its inclusive approach to the conversation about women’s freedom to dress. It is commendable that an international organisation has recognised the veil worn by Muslim women as part of the broader narrative of clothing freedom.

How Inclusive Is the Indian Feminist Discourse Regarding the Hijab?
When seen in the context of Amnesty International’s recent inclusive stance, the feminist discourse in India on women’s clothing appears disappointing. The dialogue is so narrow that women who cover their heads are excluded from the very definition of empowerment.

Even the NGOs and organisations that claim to be torchbearers of women’s rights and empowerment in India are not inclusive in their views, posters, banners, or any official documentation.

If India’s diversity is not reflected in the discourse on women’s rights, such dialogue risks being seen as merely a means of imposing a particular ideology or dress code.

When Indian feminists speak of women’s freedom and empowerment, their entire argument often leans more toward promoting or rejecting a specific kind of attire rather than the fundamental right to choose one’s clothing. This reveals the narrow-mindedness of the Indian feminist dialogue.

Silence of Feminists on Clothing Restrictions in India
This lack of inclusivity becomes even more glaring when we see that hijab-wearing girls in India are not only discriminated against by the state in schools but are also marginalised in ideological debates. Far from standing in solidarity with them, mainstream feminist dialogues barely mention them.

Any social dialogue must be inclusive. India, being a diverse country with a rich variety in culture, food, religion, language, geography, and attire, should naturally foster inclusive thinking, whether in laws or intellectual discussions.

Indian Feminism and the Search for Empowerment and Modernity in Clothing
Feminist discourse based on ideals like freedom, modernity, empowerment, or liberal thought, often comes riddled with biases and is far removed from reality.

Indian feminists often associate short clothes with empowerment, modernity, and independence, whereas women who cover their heads are seen as oppressed, conservative, or another common term used “conditioned.” The word “conditioning” is commonly used by Indian feminists to target hijab-wearing women.

However, it is worth contemplating that all clothing choices, whether short or traditional, are outcomes of conditioning. Not just clothing, but even our food, language, and mannerisms are shaped by societal conditioning.

Scholars on Conditioning
Renowned psychologists and theorists like Ivan Pavlov, B.F. Skinner, and John Watson whose conditioning theories are taught in teacher training, have affirmed that human learning is largely driven by conditioning. Through conditioning, people can learn many positive things.

Therefore, dismissing the choice of wearing a hijab as mere conditioning is a reflection of the narrow vision within Indian feminism. Targeting specific groups on the basis of their attire under the pretext of conditioning reveals how far those who claim to support women’s rights actually are from a grounded and inclusive approach.

Using the term “conditioning” to brand the hijab as regressive shows the narrow thinking of Indian feminism. Targeting a specific group on the basis of attire under the guise of “conditioning” reveals how far removed these so-called advocates of women’s rights are from reality and inclusiveness.

“Modern” Attire Does Not Guarantee Progressive Thought

Observing Indian society closely, one can see that women who are deemed modern and empowered based on their attire are sometimes found supporting regressive ideologies like hate, violence, communalism, and patriarchy.

Conversely, women considered conservative because of their head coverings repeatedly prove, through achievements in careers, education, politics, etc., that attire has no connection with progress, freedom, or empowerment.

The point here is that women should be judged as empowered or independent based on their achievements and humanitarian values, not their clothing choices.

Indian Feminism Celebrates “Modern” Women, Ignores Hijabis

Indian feminism tends to celebrate the success of women who wear “modern” clothing and often credits the feminist movement for their achievements. However, when women wearing hijabs achieve similar success, this feminist space turns silent.

It’s often observed that liberal and feminist circles in India do not celebrate the success of hijabi women. The only reason for this silence is their choice to cover their heads.

Clothing Does Not Define Empowerment
When hijabi women lead a historic protest like the Shaheen Bagh movement for constitutional rights, some feminists ignore their achievements and instead comment on their covered heads, saying they still need to shed the hijab to be truly free. As if women’s freedom stories can only begin once the headscarf is removed.

Indian feminism still fails to adopt an inclusive view when it comes to the diversity of women’s clothing arising from religion, region, and culture. Meanwhile, the world is moving beyond its prejudice toward the hijab.

Institutions like Amnesty International, and even international sporting events like FIFA and the Olympics, have adopted inclusive policies allowing the hijab. But Indian feminists and the central government are still hesitant to embrace this inclusive approach.

Successful Hijab-Wearing Women Who Prove Clothing Doesn’t Define Empowerment

  1. Tawakkol Karman

A 46-year-old Yemeni woman who wears the hijab, Tawakkol Karman received the Nobel Peace Prize in 2011 for her nonviolent struggle for democracy and her remarkable work on women’s rights in Yemen.

  1. Nouhaila Benzina

A Moroccan footballer, Nouhaila became the first player to wear a hijab in the FIFA Women’s World Cup. She represented Morocco in the 2023 World Cup and has previously won 11 trophies with her club. She debuted internationally in 2017.

  1. Ramsina and Risana Rashid (IITians)

These twin sisters from a small village in Kerala passed the JEE Advanced exam in 2017. Ramsina earned an MTech in Aerospace from IIT Kharagpur, and Risana completed her BTech in Electrical Engineering from IIT Roorkee. Despite economic hardships – their father is a rickshaw driver – they’ve set a remarkable example for Indian girls.

  1. Halimah Yacob

A hijab-wearing woman, Halimah Yacob served as the President of Singapore from 2017 to 2024, becoming the country’s first female president. She was also the first female Speaker of the Singapore Parliament and served as Minister of State for Community Development before her presidency.

  1. Adeeba Anam – UPSC Topper

Adeeba, the daughter of an auto-rickshaw driver from Yavatmal district in Maharashtra, cleared the UPSC exam in her fourth attempt and secured an All India Rank of 142 in 2024. She became the first Muslim woman from her state to achieve this, proving again that success is defined by determination, not by clothing.

Empowerment Comes from Spirit and Inclusivity, Not Clothes

The countless success stories of hijab-wearing women in India and abroad prove that attire or clothing style is not a measure of modernity or progressiveness. True modernity lies not in branded clothes but in an individual’s perspective and inclusive outlook.

If progress were tied to modern clothing, women from poor or marginalised backgrounds would never succeed. Yet, every day, we read stories of such women, Muslim, hijabi, rural, or from underprivileged communities, achieving great success.

These consistent achievements in various fields prove that progressive thinking is incomplete without inclusiveness.

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